Conservation Garden Park

Plant Spotlight

2012-02-20T08:00:00.000-08:00

Black Beauty Elderberry (Sambucus nigra ‘Gerda’)

For me, one word sums up the elderberry experience – sour! Granted, the berries I tried were off of a scrubby looking thing I found while out hiking, but they were VERY sour. Getting past all the sourness, I could taste a flavor that might go well with a truckload of sugar, so I would someday like to try them again . . . with the sugar mind you.

This variety of elderberry doesn’t have as many berries as the native American elderberry (S. canadensis), but it does have dark purple foliage and stems that rival the look of a Japanese maple. Its clusters of pink/white flowers are a beautiful sight in the spring, but fade quickly to berries that aren’t too showy. It grows from 8 to 10 feet tall and needs extra water during its first couple of years, becoming more drought tolerant with time.

Plant Spotlight

2012-02-13T08:00:00.000-08:00

Midwinter Fire Dogwood (Cornus sanguinea ‘Midwinter Fire’)

This shrubby dogwood has all the typical elements that make a great shrub; handsome green leaves, clusters of pure white flowers and a pleasing form. But, where this shrub really shines is in the winter. Once its leaves are gone, the stems show off their color which shifts from yellow-orange at the base to dark orange in the middle and bright red on the tops. A fire in midwinter.

Scene in the Garden

2012-02-08T08:00:00.000-08:00

Wilted Prickly Pear
This picture was taken in the garden on February 2nd of this year (Groundhog Day).

At first glance these cacti appear to be in the final stages of a slow death, patiently waiting for the undertaker to escort them to the great compost pile in the sky. The winter has left them cold – unable to take in water to keep their leaves turgid. Yet, they are still quite alive and with the onset of warmer weather they will regain their former stature.

I find this picture a strange mix of grotesqueness and beauty. We tend to avoid looking at decay and weakness, but a closer look reveals stunning patterns created by all the wrinkles. Sometimes there is beauty in imperfection.

Plant Spotlight

2012-02-06T08:00:00.000-08:00

For the month of February, we'll be spotlighting some little known and underused shrubs for the Utah landscape.

Brilliant Red Chokeberry (Aronia arbutifolia ‘Brilliantissima’)

This attractive shrub boasts clusters of pure white flowers in the spring followed by glossy red berries framed with lustrous foliage that turns bright red in the fall. It helps that this shrub is also very tough and tolerates difficult exposures and soils. It’s the plant equivalent of a human that is good at sports and gets good grades too. Its berries are, by definition, edible but taste so bad that you won’t want them anywhere near your mouth. I guess even the best shrubs and people have at least one bitter attribute.

Plant Spotlight

2012-01-30T08:00:00.000-08:00

Zagreb Coreopsis (Coreopsis verticillata ‘Zagreb’)

Say the name of this bright perennial and you’ll feel like you’re talking backwards. Yet there’s nothing backward in its appearance. This member of the sunflower family grows in a low mound of fine foliage that’s covered with sunny yellow blooms beginning in the spring and fading slightly through the heat of summer. It also survives with less water than you’d think for such a dainty plant.

Plant Spotlight

2012-01-23T08:00:00.000-08:00

Magnus Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea ‘Magnus’)

Despite the influx of new varieties into the coneflower market, purple coneflowers are still the best in my book, with ‘Magnus’ at their head. It’s a prodigious bloomer with bright purple petals held almost straight out.

Named the Perennial Plant of the Year in 1998 as designated by the Perennial Plant Association, it earns its place in the waterwise perennial garden. Coneflowers are also a source of the herbal ingredient Echinacea which is purported to fend off colds. I’m not sure how to extract the herbal benefit from them, but I have eaten their flowers fresh, which only gave me a numb tongue.

Plant Spotlight

2012-01-16T08:00:00.001-08:00

Plumosa Sage (Salvia nemorosa ‘Pusztaflamme’)

As I write this spotlight, the lateness of the afternoon and a full stomach make it difficult to keep my eyes open and head upright. The plumosa sage has much the same problem. With some of the largest flower heads of the sages, it has trouble keeping them upright and they nod off with very little provocation. The flower clusters are large purple pillows, a different look than other sages. Despite their lazy heads, they add vital color to any waterwise landscape. While you look at some nice pictures, I’ll just prop my head up for a bit and look unconsciously busy.

Garden Catalogs

2012-01-11T08:00:00.000-08:00

This winter seems atypical so far. I would prefer a little more snow, for my own enjoyment, but I think shaking your fist at the heavens and cursing unfavorable weather is a bit futile. We live in Utah after all – we should expect inconsistent weather by now. Still, some gardeners may find winter weather depressing. When bad weather gets me down, I’ve found solace in perusing gardening catalogs. Here are a few that I like best:

1 - For sheer variety, you still can’t beat the Burpee Seeds Catalog.

2 - The High Country Gardens catalog is a must for waterwise and native perennial gardeners.

3 - If you love hard-to-find tomato and pepper varieties, try the Totally Tomatoes catalog.

4 - For the compulsive fruit grower, Stark Bros is the place to go.

5 - I like Wayside Gardens for their new varieties and great photos.

What gardening catalogs do you like? List your favorites in the comments.

Plant Spotlight

2012-01-09T08:00:00.000-08:00

Pink Bonica Rose (Rosa ‘Meidomonac’)

Many consider roses to be at the pinnacle of garden plants and their beauty does eclipse many of their lesser cousins. They vary in purpose and breeding from the tea rose, valued for fantastic cut flowers, to the shrub rose that works best as a colorful hedge.

Pink Bonica, a shrub rose, is one of my favorites. Its cheerful pink blossoms begin with a blast of blooms in the spring followed by consistent flowering throughout the summer. It makes a beautiful hedge or backdrop that threatens to out-show anything that dares to drop in front of it.

Plant Spotlight

2012-01-02T08:00:00.000-08:00

Tired of winter dreariness? In the next month we'll highlight five of our most floriferous plants, each known for putting on a floral display that will be sure to dispel your seasonal gloom.

Festiva Maxima Peony (Paeonia lactiflora ‘Festiva Maxima’)

The peony originated in China where it was prized for its beauty and healing attributes. Centuries of breeding have resulted in abundant beautiful varieties whose flower color ranges from pure white to burgundy. One of my favorites is ‘Festiva Maxima,’ which has double, pure-white flowers with a splash of bright red at its center. Aside from their flower color, they also have glossy green leaves that provide a pleasant presence in the garden long after the flowers have faded.

Plant Spotlight

2011-12-26T08:00:00.000-08:00

Baby Blue Eyes Blue Spruce (Picea pungens ‘Baby Blueeyes’)

Unlike the white fir, the blue spruce has a very prickly demeanor. Coupled with its large size, it carves out a large space, repelling plants and animals (including Homo sapiens) that seek to avoid being mauled by sharp needles. But it is a tough tree and has attractive blue-green foliage. Breeders tackled the problem of taming the blue spruce and came up with, among others, Baby Blue Eyes, a dwarf cultivar, whose small stature (10-15 feet tall) makes it welcome in smaller landscapes while retaining all of its other good characteristics.

Plant Spotlight

2011-12-19T08:00:00.000-08:00

White Fir (Abies concolor)

The white fir is popular as a Christmas tree because of its citrusy-pine smell and soft needles. Add these characteristics to its lovely blue-green coloration and a uniform conical shape, and you have an excellent landscape tree as well. It prefers to grow in sheltered spots and is tolerant of some shade. They can be a little tricky to get started, but once established are tolerant of drought and cold.

Low-Maintenance Indoor Plant Ideas

2011-12-12T08:16:00.000-08:00

The benefit of waterwise plants can be extended indoors for the winter. Live plants brighten any room, so long as they are happy and well maintained! However, many of us (myself included!) are "houseplant impaired". I'm happy to say that there are plants for folks like us!

Project #1- Hanging Mini-Terrarium

One group of fun plants are called commonly called "Air Plants" and the botanical name for them is Tillandsia. These little plants do not require soil. They receive their nutrients through water.

Air Plants aka Tillandsia

You can purchase Tillandsia online or locally at Cactus & Tropicals Nurseries in Holladay and Draper. They run $4.00- $10.00 per plant depending on size and come in a variety of foliage colors and textures. You can also purchase a special 'glue' that will allow you to stick these plants to everything from driftwood to dry tree branches to suction cups so you can afix them to your shower walls where they'll happily grow along (provided you don't get soap etc. on them).

Glass Bulb with vent holes.

For our project, I purchased a pear-shaped glass bulb from Tai Pan Trading. Cactus and Tropicals also offers these containers in both a pear and a globe shape. Expect to pay between $8-$10 for the terrarium. These containers will best house a small to medium size Air Plant or two.

To create the project, you can simply put the Air Plant in the terrarium, hang it, and be done. You may also dress it up a little with gravel, moss, or other small objects. I used some gravel we had on hand for a 'natural' look but tumbled glass would also be a cool option.

Add gravel, tumbled glass or moss to serve as a base for the Air Plant.

My son collects rocks on every family vacation. To make my terrarium more meaningful, I also included a piece of "Amethest" in my version since this is a gift for him (based on what we paid for it in a rock shop, I'm pretty sure it's just dyed quartz but don't tell my boy)!

Fit the Air plant inside using your hand or a chopstick as needed.

I also tried adding some moss to my terrarium and played with a few different possible objects but ultimately I settled on just the gravel, amethyst and plants. There's no wrong way to arrange the elements inside the terrarium except to try and cram too much in there- keeping it simple is best. Attach a jute rope or ribbon to the hook on top of the terrarium and you're read to gift!

Finshed project- so easy it's embarrassing!

Watering: Air Plants will need to be misted with water every 3 days or so. Alternatively, you can soak them in distilled water for an hour once per week.

Fertilizer: Once per month they will need to be misted with a mild, dilluted liquid fertilizer.

Light: They prefer a bright room but do not appreciate direct sunlight.

Flowering: Air Plants will flower once but the flower will last a long time. When the flower spike dies, so will the parent plant. Don't dispair! New offsets will grow from the base of the Mother plant.

Project #2- Dish Garden

Succulents also make great houseplants as they require little in the way of care and maintenance. They can survive neglect but they cannot tolerate too much affection aka: overwatering.

For this project, I bought a shallow dish container from Tai Pan Trading. You can use just about any container so long as it has drainage. I drilled a hole in the bottom of the container to ensure that excess water could drain.

Ideally, you would lay down a base of gravel in the container and put your soil on top of that. Succulents are poorly suited to soils with lots of peat moss in them. This is unfortunate because most growers use a peat moss-based soil to produce succulents for sale. As a result, whenever I purchase succulent plants, I will soak the soil they came in off the root ball. This isn't absolutely essential but it will make caring for the plants long-term easier.

Horticulturalist, Kathryn, selects some succulents for the arrangement out of her sweet plant stash!

Create a pile of soil in your low dish container then arrange your plants as suits your taste. I have probably overplanted the dish below- it only needs to have a couple of plants.

To keep the soil from sloughing off, pack some dried moss around the plants. You could also choose to add decorative rocks or kitschy objects like a mini-gnome or this little turtle!

When you're done, do NOT water the container in as you normally would. Succulent roots are brittle and break easily. While you're moving them around and planting them, you've likely broken some of their roots. This is only a problem because it makes the plant more suseptible to rot and diseases. Wait a couple of days for the roots to callous over and THEN water the container!

Finished Dish Garden

Succulents: Big box hardware stores such as Lowe's and Home Depot offer succulents in their house plant sections and have a good selection. However, I've gotten better prices and variety at J&J Nursery in Layton or Cactus and Tropicals. Just select a variety of colors and textures. Some succulents can get quite large so you may want to ask the staff for some assistance selecting the right plants. Expect to pay $2- $5 for each of the little plants. This is a time when buying small is better as they'll fit in the dish garden longer. If your plants do start to outgrow the dish garden, just move them to another container. I recommend succulents like rosette-shaped Echevarias and textural Crassulas.

Soil: Soil mixes for succulents can be purchased anyplace you acquire the plants. I custom blend my own mix because I'm trying to keep the peat moss away from the base of the plant. My preferred blend is 30% succulent soil mix, 40% fine gravel, 30% fine bark or coconut fiber.

Watering: Indoors, stick with watering every 3-4 weeks. The dish garden can be moved to an ourdoor table when all danger of frost has passed. Outdoors expect to water the plants once per week.

Light: Indoors they will be perfectly happy in a bright room near a window. Outdoors, they'll want part shade as our intense summer sun can sunburn their juicy leaves.

Fertilizer: Apply a dilluted fertilizer in spring. Do not fertilize in the winter while plants are not in their active growth phase.

Plant Spotlight

2011-12-12T08:00:00.000-08:00

Bosnian Pine (Pinus heldreichii)

This is another Eastern European evergreen, tried and tested through the centuries in their cold and difficult clime. It’s known for a consistent pyramidal form, attractive blue-green needles and comes pre-decorated for Christmas with unusual purple cones. It’s one tough cookie withstanding temperatures as low as -44°F and resisting strong winds, making it useful as a windbreak.

Barnes Wholesale Nursery - http://www.barneswholesale.com/

Plant Spotlight

2011-12-05T15:19:00.000-08:00

After a brief hiatus, we've returned with the ever popular plant spotlight. Thanks for reading!

Serbian Spruce (Picea omorika)

With the passing of Thanksgiving, some attention to Christmas matters may not be inappropriate. For the next month, we’ll highlight our favorite evergreen trees that will do so well in your landscape you’ll want to leave them there.

I may not know much about Eastern Europe, but I do know they produce some excellent evergreens. The Serbian spruce is increasing in popularity in Utah landscapes due to its hardiness and resistance to pollution. On top of that, attractive sweeping branches and variegated needles give it a striking appearance. It’s a much nicer spruce than its native cousin, the blue spruce, with slightly softer needles and a more upright form that leaves room for other plants around it.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-11-06T08:00:00.000-08:00

Thornless Cockspur Hawthorn (Crataegus crus-galli inermis)

The hawthorn is aptly named for two of its most common characteristics. A haw is the pome-like fruit that all hawthorns produce. The thorns go without explanation, but they can be quite large on some hawthorns. The thornless cockspur hawthorn is one hawthorn that the thorns have been bred out of, allowing the rest of the tree to be enjoyed without risk of impalement. And there is a lot to enjoy about this small tree: the leaves are roughly oval in shape and are a glossy dark green. Clusters of pure-white blossoms adorn the tree in the spring. The fruit, although somewhat messy, are an attractive fire-engine red and are easy to clean up. The fall color is stunning, with a mix of reds, oranges and yellows. This hardy “haw-thornless” is worth planting in any yard.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-10-31T08:00:00.000-07:00

Dwarf Burning Bush (Euonymus alatus ‘Compactus’)

Although Moses heard a voice coming from a burning bush, this particular burning bush remains relatively quiet. Sometimes called “winged euonymus,” because of the corky ridges that run along the branches, the burning bush “burns” in the fall when its leaves turn a brilliant red that sets the standard for all other autumn reds. The dwarf burning bush is shorter than the original and tops out at about 5 to 6 feet. Care should be taken to provide adequate moisture (at least once a week) or the bush will really burn and turn quite crispy.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-10-24T08:00:00.000-07:00

Gro-Low Sumac (Rhus aromatic ‘Gro-Low’)

Gro-Low sumac is a cultivated variety of the native oakleaf sumac and shares all of its desirable characteristics but grows to a much more manageable size. Only reaching 3-4 feet, this sumac has three-lobed, dark, glossy-green leaves that turn bright red in the fall. As the botanical name suggests, the leaves of Gro-Low sumac are aromatic bordering on pungent. Although the aroma can be pleasant at first, it can rapidly become overbearing. Plan on washing yourself and your clothes after pruning or working with this shrub. However, don’t let its smell deter you. It is a hardy, relatively care-free shrub that requires only minimal amounts of water once established.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-10-17T08:00:00.000-07:00

Feather Reed Grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora)

Feather reed grass, I would guess, is one of the most requested ornamental grasses on the market today. Compared with other ornamental grasses, it has a very manageable size (4-5 feet tall) and tends to keep its upright form when many other grasses flop. Slender leaf blades are dark-green in the cultivar ‘Karl Foerster’ and have a white-variegated mid-rib in “Overdam.” Plumes of almost purple seed-heads appear earlier than other grasses and turn an attractive tan by late-summer. Feather reed grass needs water about once a week in mid-summer. We leave ours up all winter and cut it back to about 6 inches in the early-spring.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-10-10T08:00:00.000-07:00

Plumbago (Ceratostigma plumbaginoides)

You can never have just one plumbago. Oh, you can plant just one, but it will happily multiply in almost any setting and soil. Although it doesn’t generally tend to overrun plants, it will work its way throughout your planter, filling it to the brim. Although this would be a detrimental characteristic in almost any other plant, plumbago has such lovely attributes that you hardly care. Brilliant blue flowers adorn the plant in late-summer through fall. Shiny leaves are attractive year-round but are especially eye-catching in the fall when they turn a bright-red. Plumbago is also easy to care for and will do almost too well with a little water and a spring-time haircut.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-10-03T08:00:00.000-07:00

Ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba)

Fossil records prove ginkgos to be living relics of pre-historic ages. Ginkgos thrived as a species among dinosaurs until slowly dying back until the only remaining species survived in a reduced population in Asia. Currently the only living species is Ginkgo biloba which has survived through the ages by its ability to adapt to difficult and varied conditions.

Ginkgos are very tough trees and fairly easy to grow. My parents have a site in their landscape which had a history of high tree mortality rates. After several attempts at other trees, I recommended the ginkgo, which has grown spectacularly and saved my reputation with my family.

Ginkgos are large trees and usually grow with an upright form. Recent cultivars have been developed which are almost columnar in form. Ginkgo leaves are distinctively fan-shaped and have been used for medicinal purposes. They also turn a bright yellow in the fall, not the dull unattractive fall yellow, but a truly bright golden-yellow like melted butter. Ginkgos are dioecious (each tree being either male or female). When choosing a ginkgo, make sure to pick a variety that is certified as male because females produce fruit that, once fallen, ferment to create a stench unwanted in any landscape.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-09-26T08:00:00.000-07:00

Russian Sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia)

Russian sage is not a true sage, nor strictly speaking, Russian, although it was named after a Russian General. It is one of the premier waterwise landscaping plants and appears in virtually every waterwise garden in Utah. Its masses of bright-blue flowers and tolerance of difficult soils and dry conditions do make it an excellent choice for water-thrifty landscapes.

I have only two problems with this almost perfect plant. Number one, it reaches such a large size (up to four feet) that it tends to overpower small landscapes. Planting it near sidewalks will make passersby fear being swallowed up. They work well at the back of flower beds where they can provide a back drop and showcase other perennials rather than block then from view. Recent introductions of dwarf varieties, such as ‘Little Spire,’ appear to be a better choice for smaller spaces.

Secondly, the flowers bloom late in the season and I think the highly-dissected foliage growing on silvery-gray stems looks a bit weedy. So it takes some patience to enjoy the flowers, but once they appear, you remember why you kept it around. The foliage is very fragrant, which for me is always a plus, but cut the stems back to about six inches each spring to rejuvenate its growth. The flowers are loved by bees and other nectar-loving insects which, at its peak, make the Russian sage hum with activity.

Perfect Plants for Park Strips

2011-09-21T08:00:00.000-07:00

I’m not generally a fan of alliteration in titles, but these five plants don’t mind hot, dry, often salty spots, making them perfect for park strips.

Chocolate Flower: Berlandiera lyrata

Orange Carpet Fire Chalice: Zauschneria garrettii ‘Orange Carpet’

Mesa Verde Ice Plant: Delosperma ‘Kelaidis’

Whirling Butterflies Gaura: Gaura lindheimeri 'Whirling Butterflies'

Plumbago: Ceratostigma plumbaginoides

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-09-19T08:00:00.000-07:00

Sweet Autumn Clematis (Clematis terniflora)

Whether you pronounce it snootily (cle-mah-tis) or lazily (cle-maa-tis), you usually think of climbing vines with large, boldly colored flowers. The sweet autumn clematis, however, has relatively small, star-shaped flowers that are pure white and grow in such masses that the vine almost appears to be covered in snow. Better yet, the flowers come in the autumn when they are a welcome sight after the bleakness of hot summer days and have a pleasantly sweet aroma. The dark-green leaves are nothing to sniff at either.

Sweet autumn clematises are easy to grow and require little attention, just something sturdy to climb on. A heavy pruning in the spring will help to rejuvenate the vine and remove unattractive woody growth.

Creature Feature

2011-09-14T08:00:00.000-07:00

White-lined Sphinx

Picture this. You’re out in your garden on a cool summer evening, talking with your neighbors and admiring the lovely pink flowers blooming on your desert four o’clock. A dark shape suddenly whirs past your shoulder, the rapid thud of wings so close it makes you shiver. The shape moves too fast to follow with your eyes in the half light of evening and you lose it for a moment, but then you spot it, a small form among your four o’clock flowers, flitting in and out at each bloom. You begin to wonder what a hummingbird is doing out so late when the shape lands for a moment on a leaf and you see large white-lined wings folded back insect-like with thick antennae waggling on a fuzzy head. That’s no bird, it’s a giant moth. At this point, depending on your nature, you either draw in closer for a better look or run screaming indoors, hands flapping in wild gyrations around your head. You, my friend, have met Hyles lineata, the white-lined sphinx.

Taken by: Shawn Hanrahan, Texa A&M University

The white-lined sphinx, though occasionally seen in daylight, is a creature of the night, feeding on nectar from night-time blooms such as desert four o’clock and Missouri evening primrose. While the adults pose no threat to plants and actually help with pollination, they start out as hungry caterpillars who like to snack on green things, including plants that people have feelings for.

Taken by: Inzilbeth

Commonly called a hornworm the white-lined sphinx caterpillar is a long, fat, green thing with a monstrous looking horn on its rump. It can be scary when encountered unexpectedly, however, there are many species of hornworms and most prefer to eat leaves and green stuff over human blood. Also, most, including the white-lined sphinx, do not pose a significant threat to vegetables or other garden plants. If encountered on a plant where it’s not welcome, the caterpillar can easily be moved to a more suitable host. I, for one, avoid squishing large insects as the sight of so many bug guts makes me nauseous.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-09-12T08:00:00.000-07:00

Sunset Hyssop (Agastache rupestris)

Not a true hyssop, the sunset hyssop is a member of the mint family, as you can tell from its characteristically square stems. As a mint family member, all parts of this plant have a distinctively minty smell which some describe as root beer, anise or urinal cakes (the ones describing it that way said it as if they enjoyed the smell of urinal cakes, so that’s not a bad thing). I personally lean toward it smelling like anise, and I am always impressed by a plant that looks good and smells good.

This large perennial wakes up a little late, so be patient before pulling it out. The long stems and small leaves are bluish-green in color and will eventually form a bush up to 3 or 4 feet in height. In late-summer and autumn, salmon pink flowers bloom profusely and are very attractive. It is a must-have autumn bloomer for all waterwise landscapes. It may be a little short lived in heavy soils, but it makes up for it in its other perfect characteristics.

Garden Event Update

2011-09-07T08:00:00.000-07:00

September is a great time to garden. Let us help you get in the mood. Come listen to garden guru Joy Bossi as she leads an enlightening tour of the garden. Join in the festivities on Saturday, September 10th at our “Blue” Festival. For more information, visit http://www.conservationgardenpark.org/

Learn with “Joy in the Garden”

Thursday, September 8, 2011

6:00 p.m.

Joy Bossi, Garden Consultant and host of KNRS “Joy in the Garden”

Radio host and garden consultant Joy Bossi will tour the Conservation Garden Park, providing many excellent landscaping insights and ideas. Come with your questions and walking shoes.

Utah Green Blue Festival

Saturday, September 11, 2010
9am-4pm
Blue is the new Green. How much water is used to make a pair of jeans, a set of dishes, or a new car? Join us for a day full of informational classes, experts and vendors experienced in conserving energy, water and other natural resources, and learn what you can do to reduce your impact on the environment.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-09-05T08:00:00.000-07:00

Peach (Prunus persica)

My wife and I always giggle at a hand painted sign posted along the highway heading to Logan, Utah, that reads “Peachs.” Then we take turns attempting to pronounce the word, slurring it by abruptly coming to the “sss” without the missing “e” that would soften its sound. The sign may be there to this day, a relic of the times when fruit was sold at that corner. Fresh peaches and other fruit are still sold at stands along the “fruit way” of Perry, Utah and in garden markets across the state, because once you’ve had homegrown fruit, the stuff they sell in supermarkets can never compare.

You can have that homegrown taste for yourself by planting peach trees in your own landscape. It is difficult to grow a peach tree for ornamental purposes, while maintaining it to bear fruit. Fruit producing trees need extensive and purposeful pruning to promote growth on branches that have the most potential to bear fruit. With care, fruit trees can be pruned to look good in landscapes without leaving them bare or stubby-looking. For the healthiest fruit, thin the small, green peaches out when they first appear, to the distance covered from pinky to thumb with your hand fully outstretched. This may seem a brutal waste of fruit, but you will be amazed at the size of properly thinned peaches.

The peach tree does have attractive pink flowers that bloom early in the spring followed by slow-growing fruit that will usually mature in early-September, in time for Brigham City’s annual Peach Day celebration. The fruit is, of course, very delicious to eat fresh, but can be preserved, jammed, dried and leathered. Some people are turned off by the peach’s characteristic fuzz and nectarines may be a better fit for them. Make sure to choose a variety that is freestone because anyone who has bottled peaches knows what a pain it can be to dig out those pits. Also consider purchasing dwarf varieties as they will be easier to harvest from and fit better in residential settings.

Our Beautiful Natives

2011-08-31T08:00:00.000-07:00

Most Utahns don’t realize what a beautiful state they reside in. On many occasions I have witnessed our native flora dismissed with a wave of an arm and a mumbled comment about weeds. I didn’t always realize it either, but with a closer look I have found a plethora of interesting and even beautiful plants that are native to the Beehive State. The best part is, they’re adapted to our climate, making them more resilient to pests and easier to care for. Here are five of my favorite garden-worthy Utah natives (click on the plant names for more information):

Firecracker Penstemon

Sundancer Daisy

Fire Chalice

Sulfur Flower Buckwheat

Dorr Sage

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-08-29T08:00:00.000-07:00

Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis)

Native to southern Utah, this tall shrub/small tree is more closely related to catalpas than willows. Hardy to a zone 6 or 7, the desert willow will die back in Utah winters. The ones growing in our garden will usually lose one to two feet of branches and occasionally more during northern Utah’s harsher winters. However, the roots remain vigorous and respond quickly once the heat returns in spring.

Long branches are covered with slender green leaves. Pink orchid-like blooms steal the show in late-spring and early summer, sometimes flowering fitfully into the summer. The flowers give way to long, green seed pods that turn brown as they die. Desert willows can survive off of natural precipitation, but will also tolerate a little bit of irrigation.

Garden Event Update

2011-08-24T08:00:00.000-07:00

There’s still plenty of time to get some gardening done. Come and find out how at our free waterwise landscaping classes and events.

Go Native!

Saturday, September 3, 2011
9:00 a.m.
Steven Paulsen, Conservation Seeding & Restoration, Inc
Utah-native plants require less water and maintenance and are adapted to our environment. Learn how to use their beauty in your landscape.

Watering Drop by Drop: Drip Irrigation Basics
Saturday, September 3, 2011
10:30 a.m.
Gig Bunnell, Sprinkler World
Drip irrigation saves water but can be confusing to design and install. Learn about different drip system products and which will work best for you as well as easy installation techniques for sure-fire success.

Learn with “Joy in the Garden”
Thursday, September 8, 2011
6:00 p.m.
Joy Bossi, Garden Consultant and host of KNRS “Joy in the Garden”
Radio host and garden consultant Joy Bossi will tour the Conservation Garden Park, providing many excellent landscaping insights and ideas. Come with your questions and walking shoes.

Utah ~~Green~~ Blue Festival
Saturday, September 11, 2010
9am-4pm
Blue is the new Green. How much water is used to make a pair of jeans, a set of dishes, or a new car? Join us for a day full of informational classes, experts and vendors experienced in conserving energy, water and other natural resources, and learn what you can do to reduce your impact on the environment.

For more information, and to register, visit www.ConservationGardenPark.org/events/.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-08-22T08:00:00.000-07:00

Desert Four O’Clock (Mirabilis multiflora)

One of my favorite Utah natives, the desert four o’clock is a giant of a plant, often reaching up to 5-6 feet in diameter. It grows in a large spreading clump with almost heart-shaped leaves and large pink, trumpet-shaped flowers that open up in the afternoon as cooler temperatures prevail. Many morning visitors to our garden discount it before seeing its hundreds of flowers in bloom, much to their loss. Hawk moths, which are out when the flowers are blooming, are a common sight near any desert four o’clock plant. It is a steady reseeder and any stray seedlings should be controlled, unless you want it to spread.

It is the ultimate low maintenance plant; its large, fleshy roots are its secret to success. The roots store ample moisture which helps it to survive off of natural precipitation. Once the first frosts of summer have killed the top of the plant, simply grab the stems and pull, which will separate them from their still-living roots. Dispose of the stems and leaves and repeat again next year.

Daffodils are an excellent companion plant. The desert four o’clock will bide its time in the spring until the weather warms up, giving the daffodils time to bloom and flourish before the four o’clock covers up their yellowing leaves.

Frogs, Crickets and Mites

2011-08-18T10:17:00.000-07:00

Thanks to the efforts of a devoted grandmother, my son became the caretaker of six tiny frogs. They were country frogs, born and raised along the wide-open swampy bottoms of the Bear River and relocated to a tiny plastic cage in the city. My son, as is common for boys, has a soft spot for slimy creatures and he enjoyed seeing them squirm and flop in their mini-habitat complete with rocks, lettuce leaf and murky water.

But the city lacks the variety of insect refreshment found in the hungry amphibians’ native swampland. So we visited the local pet shop where we purchased live crickets, overpriced at $3.50 for twenty-four. We soon found that getting the crickets and the frogs together was difficult as they both have an annoying tendency to hop in different directions as soon as lids come off cages. I’m fairly certain that we got twenty-three crickets in frog bellies; the twenty-fourth is still on the lam, last seen in the vicinity of our living room.

I could see the writing on the wall. This was clearly not a sustainable living situation and the frogs would have to be set free. After watching the frogs starve for three days, which in amphibians means they look pretty much the same only you feel more guilt, I convinced my son to take action. With tears staining his cheeks, he let the little hoppers go. Later, we had a discussion about the circle of life, about how those frogs may not survive the great outdoors, but that was their part to play – the eater of insects that might be eaten by something larger down the line.

That circle of life is constantly unfolding in every garden and landscape, whether in the city or the country. Insects and other animals must eat or be eaten. So how does this apply to us? At the risk of sounding like some big tree-hugging nut (my apologies to any tree-hugging nuts reading this), there is a tendency to assume that every bug is the enemy and every enemy must be destroyed. In reality, overlooking a few holes in leaves and letting a few bugs slip through our garden defenses will allow the cycle to continue.

Occasionally the circle of life gets out of kilter and we see a true outbreak of insect pests that demand control. Sometimes chemicals may be the best or only option, but consider first the benefits of insecticidal soaps, oils and even a stiff jet of water which may be equally effective, less expensive and won’t disrupt the cycle.

Taken by: Gilles San Martin

As an example of this concept, let’s examine the lowly spider-mite (Tetranychus urticae), a tiny arachnid that loves hot, dry weather, especially when it has a fat, green leaf to suck juice from. It can cause serious damage or even death to its poor, drought weakened victims. A knee-jerk use of a miticide could control the spider mites for one year, only to see them return in greater numbers the next. A closer examination reveals that the injudicious use of a miticide kills the spider mite’s biggest predator, other mites. A better option is to spray the victimized plant with a cool jet of water, robbing the spider mites of their preferred habitat and leaving no residual effect, allowing the circle of life to continue next year.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-08-15T08:00:00.000-07:00

Butterfly Bush (Buddleja davidii)

Butterfly bush is found commonly throughout most of the world and has become a popular plant in cultivation. Long clusters of flowers come in white, purple, blue, yellow and magenta, which bloom throughout the summer. A fast grower, the butterfly bush can grow three to four feet in one season and reach 8 to 10 feet in height, but can be maintained at a shorter height with an aggressive approach to pruning. They may also be trimmed to a single stem creating a very small tree.

As the name implies, butterflies are attracted to its flowers as a source of nectar. Its narrow, dark-green leaves are pale green underneath and grow on exfoliating bark. In wetter climates with fertile natural soils, the butterfly bush can become invasive and escape into the wild. In Utah, however, it stays put and survives with minimal amounts of irrigation.

Garden Event Update

2011-08-10T14:06:00.000-07:00

Confused about what to do with your park strip? Are you interested in planting natives? We have the classes for you. Visit us on August 20th for a Saturday morning of learning. The classes are FREE and open to anyone. Register online at www.ConservationGardenPark.org/events/.

Easy Designs for Problematic Park Strips

Saturday, August 20, 2011

9:00 a.m.

Kathlyn Collins, the Gardening Coach

Narrow, hot and dry, park strips can be difficult areas to landscape. Learn how to design park strips that take less water and look beautiful.

The Best Native Plants for Utah

Saturday, August 20, 2011

10:30 a.m.

Faye Rutishauser, New Horizons Nursery
Utah is full of plants that are beautiful, adapted to the climate and grow naturally. Find out the Utah-native plants that work best for you.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-08-08T08:00:00.000-07:00

Apricot (Prunus armeniaca)

Fruit of the prunus genus are among my favorite and the apricot tops the list for usefulness. There is no end to their uses such as in fruit leather, jams, dried and as a fresh snack. Apricots are also very beautiful ornamental trees and their small pinkish-white flowers are among the first to bloom. The drawback to using them ornamentally is that the fruit can make a mess when they fall, especially if they are not harvested on time.

It is difficult to tell exactly where the apricot originated and Armenia is as good a guess as any. Regardless, apricots prefer colder climates and don’t mind a little drought, although any fruit producing tree should get adequate amounts if large crops of fruit are expected.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-08-01T08:00:00.000-07:00

Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus)

Hibiscuses are most commonly associated with climates like Hawaii, but Utah’s dry, arid climate wouldn’t seem a likely spot for this tropical flower. However, the Rose-of-Sharon is related to the hibiscus and has a very similar flower, just smaller than its tropical cousins but still about three to four inches in diameter. Its flowers bloom throughout the summer making it an excellent summer blooming shrub.

The Rose-of-Sharon will reach 8 to 10 feet in height and grows medium-green, somewhat maple-shaped leaves. It is very tolerant of drought and Utah’s alkaline soils. Not a large water user, this shrub works well along fence lines and as a backdrop to flower beds.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-07-25T08:00:00.000-07:00

Coneflower (Echinacea spp.)

Coneflowers are commonly used perennials whose large and colorful flowers earn their right to be planted in all landscapes. Historically, the word purple was almost always used in front of coneflowers because all coneflowers were purple. However, recent intensive breeding programs have resulted in coneflowers that range from white to yellow, purple to pink and almost red. The many-petaled flowers begin blooming in late-spring and continue throughout the summer, providing long-lasting appeal.

Coneflowers are the source of Echinacea which has been used to fend off colds throughout the ages and was used by early Native Americans. Although its effectiveness is hotly contested I have personally eaten portions of the cones of fresh coneflowers and although I didn’t have a cold at the time, I didn’t get one in the next day or two after eating it. It was, however, very difficult to chew and made my mouth very numb. Since then, I have gotten two or three others to eat the cones of coneflowers, the most exciting being my brother who became a little panicky until feeling returned to his mouth. Unfortunately, I must say at this point, I am obviously not an expert on the herbal effects of coneflowers and if you eat any portion of any plant you do so at your own risk.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-07-18T08:00:00.000-07:00

Green Santolina (Santolina rosmarinifolia)

Another native to the Mediterranean region, green santolina is a mounded evergreen shrub with dark-green leaves that somewhat resemble those of the rosemary. Also, like rosemary, the leaves are very aromatic and can be used in potpourri and for other fragrance purposes. Despite the beauty of the foliage alone, it will also produce white button flowers in the late-spring to summer that can be sheared off once dried. Coming from the Mediterranean, it is naturally adapted to climates that receive very little summer precipitation and it will survive admirably in Utah with minimal irrigation.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-07-11T08:00:00.000-07:00

Arp Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Arp’)

Rosemary is a large shrub native to the Mediterranean region which, like Utah, receives most of its precipitation in the winter. Rosmarinus means “dew of the sea,” and was named so because of its pale blue flowers and usual habitat near coastal areas. The Mediterranean region has significantly warmer winter temperatures than Utah and many of their indigenous plants prefer warmer climes and typically rosemary won’t survive winter in Utah. Arp rosemary, however, will survive most Utah winters and we have several in our garden that have thrived for 10 years or more.

Rosemary is very aromatic and often used for culinary purposes, in potpourri and in health care products such as soap and shampoo. Light-grey branches are adorned with small, dark-green leaves. Light blue flowers bloom in late-spring to early-summer. Despite its increased hardiness, even Arp rosemary should be planted in a location that will be protected in the winter.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-07-04T08:00:00.000-07:00

Apache Plume (Fallugia paradoxa)

A member of the rose family, the Apache plume is among the showiest of Utah native plants. Pure-white flowers with five petals give way to plumed seed heads with a pinkish hue. The leaves are grayish-green and finely divided.

The plant, as a whole, has an unruly appearance and works best in a natural setting. Judicious pruning will help the Apache plume to have a more regular appearance. Unfortunately, many gardeners tend to grow faint of heart at the thought of cutting plants back severely, but this shrub could use a haircut every third year.

Being native to Utah, the Apache plume doesn’t mind the alkaline soils or the heat or low humidity. It thrives in our garden with natural precipitation but gets some shade in the late afternoon. Although not for everyone, the passionate Utah native gardener will give this showy shrub a try.

Garden Event Update

2011-06-29T08:00:00.000-07:00

Summer is here and we still have some great waterwise classes. Best of all, they’re FREE! Visit http://conservationgardenpark.org/events/ for more information and to register.

Waterwise Plants for Summer
Saturday, July 9, 2011
10:00 a.m.
Kathryn Brown, Conservation Garden Park
Come to the Garden to find out which plants are at their peak during the summer. This is a tour, so please bring your walking shoes and sun protection.

Improve your Lawn
Thursday, July 14, 2011
6:30 p.m.
Clifton Smith, Conservation Garden Park
Do you have lawn envy? Learn how to turn the tables on your turf, improve the color and health of your grass and become the envy of your neighborhood.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-06-27T08:00:00.000-07:00

Sundancer Daisy (Tetraneuris acaulis)

The sundancer daisy used to be called “perky Sue,” until some actual Sues took exception to the name and changed it, for the better I think. A low-growing perennial, the sundancer daisy is a perky little plant, forming small mounds of almost grass-like foliage that are covered with miniature bright yellow, daisy flowers. The cheery blossoms grow on thin stems that hold them above the foliage starting in May until frost hits in the fall. It needs very little maintenance and can be left untouched without diminishing its good looks. Better yet, it is native to Utah and prefers to live off of natural precipitation alone. My sundancer daisies worked well in a parkstrip and even began to lightly reseed making new clumps that were welcome in my yard.

Creature Feature

2011-06-24T10:32:00.000-07:00

Fire Blight

Like people, plants can get bacterial infections. Though not a creature, fire blight is the name of a disease caused by the bacterium Erwinia amylovora. Despite its wimpy sounding scientific name, it is a menace to all plants of the Rose family and is a significant disease of apples and pears.

The symptoms of fire blight are easy to identify and begin with the wilting of leaves and stems in the affected plant. It will usually not infect the whole plant at once, but will begin on one or two new branches or stems and spread over time. After wilting, the leaves and blossoms turn brown and the stem ends curl in a characteristic shepherd’s crook shape. The dead leaves often stay on their stems well after they would normally have fallen. As a human’s nose might start oozing when they get sick, fire blight infected trees will ooze out of infected tissue. Cankers, or open wounds, will appear on branches. Infected trees will begin to lose branches and may die, though it usually takes more than one season to perish.

University of Wisconson-Extension

The best way to combat this disease is to plant trees that are resistant. Nurseries should stock apple and pear varieties that are resistant. You can also prevent fire blight by avoiding rapid, succulent growth since it prefers to spread onto new branches. This means you should avoid over-fertilization and extreme pruning, both of which will cause a tree to grow faster.

Once you spot fire blight, it’s not too late. Remove infected branches as soon as possible. Prune well below the infected portion and dip pruning tools in a water-bleach mixture to disinfect between cuts. Remove and destroy all pruned branches promptly. Foliar sprays are available and vary between antibiotics and copper solutions. However, sprays are preventive only and should be used before symptoms are seen.

Although it may seem like a lost cause, treatment applied early can stop the onset of the disease. If you’ve lost your plant, look on the bright side, now you can choose something new! May I suggest: http://www.starkbros.com/products/trees/apple-trees/disease-resistant-apple-assortment-3-trees.

Succulent Gardening Class/ Volunteer Opportunity

2011-06-23T07:46:00.000-07:00

We need your help! The first annual Conservation Garden Park Gala will be held on August 27th, 2011 here at Conservation Garden Park. The décor for the sustainability-themed event will include 32 succulent wreath centerpieces! While I'd love to horde the fun for myself, we decided it would be a great opportunity for hands-on learning and we’re asking for volunteer help to create these unique works of garden art!

This is an exclusive opportunity for our Facebook friends, Twitter followers and blog readers- it is not part of our regular class offerings.

CLASS DATE: Tuesday, June 28th, 2011
LOCATION: Conservation Garden Park, South Parking Lot
TIME: 10:00 am- Noon
BRING: Sunscreen and your creativity
INSTRUCTORS: Cynthia Bee, Brent Erkelens and Susan Carbonell

Wreath by Topiary Art Works- suppliers of the wreath forms we'll be using.

In exchange for your labor, we will teach you everything you need to know to grow your OWN indoor or outdoor succulent gardens here in the Beehive State. We’ll cover soils, propagation and the amazing array of projects that can be created from these most interesting plants!

Succulent living wall and topiary created by class instructor, Cynthia Bee

Even the non-hardy, Mediterranean succulents are waterwise. Using a few basic techniques, they also make fantastic container gardens for those of us who tend our containers with a bit of benign neglect!

In addition to cultivation information, we will have two top floral designers, Brent Erkelens and Susan Carbonell, on hand to help guide you through the process of creating succulent wreaths and help you develop your floral arrangement skills.

While we can’t let you keep your arrangement, please know that they will be used to raise money for the garden and help maintain it as a free public resource. Any unsold arrangements WILL be available for sale after the Gala Event on August 27th, 2011. We hope to see you on Tuesday, June 28th!

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-06-20T08:00:00.000-07:00

Diabolo Ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius ‘Diabolo’)

Speaking of botanical names, this medium sized shrub’s name means “bladder fruit,” which may also make a good name for a rock band. However, the botanical name is not really descriptive of the ninebark, which is so called because of its exfoliating bark which reveals several light-brown to red layers underneath. Diabolo is a purple-leaved cultivar that produces clusters of pinkish-white flowers in the spring. The leaves of this variety will lose their purple coloring in the summer heat, turning a dark-green. Ninebarks are happy in a wide range of soils and don’t mind a bit less water.

Garden Event Update

2011-06-15T08:00:00.000-07:00

These classes and events are coming up soon. Visit http://conservationgardenpark.org/events/ for more information and to register for classes.

High Country Gardens
Saturday, June 18, 2011
10:00 a.m.
David Salman, High Country Gardens
Find out about the best ornamental grasses for your landscape from David Salman, owner of High Country Gardens, one of the premier waterwise nurseries in the West. Admission is free, but seating is limited so sign up now to reserve your seat.

Waterwise Plants for Summer
Saturday, July 9, 2011
10:00 a.m.
Kathryn Brown, Conservation Garden Park
Come to the Garden to find out which plants are at their peak during the summer. This is a tour, so please bring your walking shoes and sun protection.

Improve your Lawn
Thursday, July 14, 2011
6:30 a.m.
Clifton Smith, Conservation Garden Park
Do you have lawn envy? Learn how to turn the tables on your turf, improve the color and health of your grass and become the envy of your neighborhood.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-06-13T08:00:00.000-07:00

Blue Oat Grass (Helictotrichon sempervirens)

I have a fascination with botanical names and helictotrichon always sounded to me like a good name for an alien planet. Its latin meaning is “twisted hair,” which sounds like a good name for a rock band. The blue oat grass is not related to oats, but it is bluish-green in color and retains some of its green in winter as suggested by sempervirens (evergreen). The blue oat grass excels as a foliage plant and provides an excellent backdrop for most flowering perennials. It is much larger than the similar blue fescue and much more uniform in color and shape, it also lives much longer before dying out. The leaves of the blue oat grass are long and slender and it creates a very even mound of foliage.

Although somewhat evergreen, much of its leaves will turn brown in the winter. Instead of cutting it all back, as is normal for other ornamental grasses, it will look best if, in the spring, you rake your hands through it, pulling out the dead leaves and leaving the green behind. Be sure to wear gloves as the leaves have sharp edges that will cut your hands.

What to Do With Your Deadheads

2011-06-08T15:14:00.000-07:00

If you aren’t an avid gardener, the term deadheading may conjure up some strange images. Something to do with zombies or classic rock-and-roll fans maybe? In a horticultural sense, however, deadheading means the removal of spent blossoms from your landscape plants.

The colors and scents that flowers add make them an important ingredient in most successful landscapes. Unless you are an unforgivable grouch or someone with severe allergies, you enjoy seeing the blossoms appear with warm spring weather. If you’ve created a good landscape design, the flowers continue to bloom in your yard all the way through summer and maybe even into early fall. Yet every flower fades away sometime, and something should be done with the dead blossoms.

After flowers bloom, plants put energy into seed production. Most of the time this effort is wasted, since many plants will not reseed true to form and, even if they do, might end up making gardening harder with hundreds of new plants in the wrong places. The energy they put into seed production is better spent in growing new leaves and better roots so that the flowers look better next year. Plus, some people just can’t stand leaving unsightly dead flowers on their plants.

Lavender before deadheading.

That’s where deadheading comes in. Wait for the flower petals to fall and then, using garden shears or even scissors, cut off the seed head. In most cases, you’ll want to cut back the flower stems as well, so that the plant retains a pleasing form. This process takes an artistic eye. When you leave the plant, it should appear as if the flowers were never there. The deadheading process can be monotonous, but you can find ways to speed up the process by removing more than one stem at once.

Lavender after deadheading.

Not all plants need to be deadheaded. Many plants, whose flowers are; small, held close to the plant and inconspicuous when dead, don’t need to be deadheaded. Basically, if the plant looks as good with dead flowers as it did with living ones, then don’t waste your time.

A note for men:
Avoid using string-trimmers or lawn mowers for this process. No matter how steady you think your hand is, once you’ve used your equipment on them, they’ll never look the same. Trust me. I’ve tried. And I have a pretty steady hand.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-06-06T08:00:00.000-07:00

Berggarten Sage (Salvia officinalis ‘Berggarten’)

Sage is a well-known herb and used by most serious cooks. This variety of the culinary sage is not only useful as an herb, but is also an attractive plant by its own right. Although not really known for their flowers (they are present but not my favorite characteristic), Berggarten sage has a stunning “sage” green color and larger leaves than the species. It is not only suitable in your backyard herb bed, but it will also hold its own in your borders as a foliage plant. Not only does this extraordinary herb offer these amazing features, but it is also very waterwise, requiring irrigation only once a week in the summer. If this were a sales pitch, this is where I would offer a two for one discount if you call now!!

Wild About Utah Wildflowers

2011-06-03T06:00:00.000-07:00

The excessively wet spring we've endured this year has been a huge boon to our native wildflower populations. Traveling the back roads and open spaces in this State has never been more beautiful!

As my family headed to Eastern Utah near Moab this past week, we were treated to some fabulous roadside color. If you have the opportunity to drive, bike or hike the 'back 40' this spring, make sure to enjoy the amazing beauty of our native wildflowers- the original 'waterwise' plants!

'Claret Cup' Cactus (Echinocereus triglochidiatiatus)

Penstemon (not sure which one- Eastern Utah is home to more varieties of Penstemon than any other place in the world).

Utah Milk Vetch (Astralagus utahensis)- lovely fern-like gray leaves host vivid purple, sweet pea shaped blooms.

White Primrose (Oenothera caespitosa)

Scarlet Globemallow (Sphaeralcea coccinea) We saw TONS of Scarlet Globemallow plants in full bloom along Highway 191 and I-70 between Green River and the Colorado border.

Have YOU seen any places in Utah where the wildflowers are particularly beautiful right now? I'm thinking I might want to do a little more plant hunting before the blooms fade!

Garden Event Update

2011-06-01T08:00:00.000-07:00

These classes and events are coming up soon. Visit www.ConservationGardenPark/events.aspx for more information and to register for classes.

Barney’s Perennial Picks
Saturday, June 11, 2011
10:00 a.m.
Barney Barnett, Willard Bay Gardens
Learn from an expert about colorful and hardy Utah-friendly perennials and how to care for them.

David Salman of High Country Gardens
Saturday, June 18, 2011
10:00 a.m.
Find out about the best plants for your landscape from David Salman, owner of High Country Gardens, one of the premier waterwise nurseries in the West. Admission is $10 and seating is limited so sign up now to reserve your seat.

Waterwise Plants for Summer
Saturday, July 9, 2011
10:00 a.m.
Kathryn Brown, Conservation Garden Park
Come to the Garden to find out which plants are at their peak during the summer. This is a tour, so please bring your walking shoes and sun protection.

Improve your Lawn
Thursday, July 14, 2011
6:30 a.m.
Clifton Smith, Conservation Garden Park
Do you have lawn envy? Learn how to turn the tables on your turf, improve the color and health of your grass and become the envy of your neighborhood.

Attend two classes in 2011 and receive a $10 gift certificate to a local nursery. Our special thanks to Glover Nursery and Cactus and Tropicals for sponsoring our classes.

(one certificate per person, while supplies last)

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-05-30T08:00:00.000-07:00

Lilac (Syringa spp.)

Lilacs are well known for their beautiful and heavily scented flower clusters which, too me, smells like pure spring. Lilac blossoms appear in dense clusters of four-petaled flowers that are commonly found in blues and purples but can be found in pinks and whites as well. These large shrubs thrive on neglect. They prefer not to be pruned or overwatered. I grew up with a very large specimen in my back yard that had grown and spread through the years providing habitat for stray cats, chickens and the occasional skunk looking for shelter. Spring is definitely the best time to see a lilac, but its dark green leaves make it attractive throughout the growing season.

Parkstrip Ideas

2011-05-26T07:00:00.000-07:00

We've recently had the opportunity to see some of the great parkstrip planting ideas Salt Lake County homeowners have employed in their own landscapes and thought we'd pass them along for inspiration.
Yellow flowers: Basket of Gold
Blue flowers-Forget-me-nots
Blue tone grass- Blue Fescue
Green groundcover: Creeeping Thyme

Burgundy Shrub: 'Burgundy Carousel' Barberry
Groundcover: Sedum, probably sedum acre.

Note: the above parkstrip has a narrow gravel strip down either side separated from the center with edging. The plantings are in the center section only. This allows for people to step into the parkstrip without damaging the groundcover. Clever!

Creeping Thyme with sandstone stepping stones.

Design Tip: When using Creeping Thyme or other low, creeping groundcover between stepping stones, use larger stones. Approximately 6 inches of the stone surface is likely to be covered with plant material over time, all the way around the stone. Larger stones will ensure there is still plenty of safe stepping surface available. Alternatively, you can cut back the plants but that rather defeats the idea of 'low maintenance'.

Japanese 'Zen' style parkstrip utilizing black Mexican Pebble with a bit of grass.

Green and white striped plant: Variegated Iris
Evergreen shrub: Mugo Pine 'Slowmound'

Center Groundcover: Creeping Thyme

Pink Flowers: Creeping Phlox
Evergreen Shrub: 'Slowmound' Mugo Pine.

Creature Feature

2011-05-25T08:00:00.000-07:00

Grasshoppers

According to legend, grasshoppers are the ultimate example of laziness. They sit around, playing their fiddles while the ants do all the work. Barring information obtained from fables, the truth about grasshoppers is that they, like most insects, are almost always occupied with the tasks of staying alive. There are around 8,000 different grasshopper species, each of which are very adapted to their environments.

Grasshoppers belong to the order Orthoptera and the family Acrididae, but genus and species vary to such a wide degree that we won’t focus on them here. Grasshopper infestations seem to come in cycles, with some bad years and some years without many sightings at all. They lay eggs in clusters that adhere to the soil and last through the winter. In spring, tiny grasshopper nymphs emerge and go through five stages, called instars, before developing into an adult.

Their preferred habitats are fields, meadows and other open areas. Grasshoppers are most prevalent in landscapes which are adjacent to natural grassland fields and meadows but are less of a problem in yards situated firmly in the middle of the city.

I lived in southeastern Washington State for a number of years, in a house that was near a large open are filled with native grasses and sagebrush. The hoppers were happy there and didn’t mind visiting our yard – usually in large numbers – for a refreshing snack of juicy green plants. My father employed us as pest control officers and encouraged us to hunt down the insects. We took to the task with relish, roaming our property with large sticks that were hand-picked for their grasshopper whacking ability.

Though arming your children with sticks is an effective means by which to control grasshopper outbreaks, there are other methods available. However, a sighting of one or two grasshoppers in your landscape is no cause for alarm. Grasshoppers prefer to feed on leaves, creating large, irregular holes. In low numbers, the damage is insignificant, but large infestations may need to be controlled. Control may be difficult due to the grasshopper’s high level of mobility and any treatment needs to encompass a large area. Before using insecticides, try insecticidal soap, which is friendlier to the environment.

But by far the best method of dealing with them is to tolerate their presence. Failing that, I have it on good authority that grasshoppers make a good snack when fried.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-05-23T08:00:00.000-07:00

Chives (Allium schoenoprasum)

Chives are those small bulbous perennials whose leaves are used in recipes to provide a mild oniony flavor. In addition to their culinary uses (and they are many), chives have very attractive clover-like, purple flowers. Chives look best planted in masses as a single plant may not make much of an impact.

Personally, I prefer plants that have a dual purpose. Chives can be planted in an herb bed but also work well amongst your other flowering perennials. If you are harvesting the leaves for culinary purposes, they are best harvested by cutting from the base so that the cut is not readily visible and does not mar its appearance.

Chives are fairly care-free perennials. Plants with pungent odors are generally not the first plants eaten by insects and other wildlife. They do well in average soils as long as they are not allowed to be continually soggy.

Garden Event Update

2011-05-18T08:00:00.000-07:00

These classes and events are coming up soon. Visit www.ConservationGardenPark/events.aspx for more information and to register for classes.

Advanced Waterwise Landscape Design

Thursday, May 19, 2011

6:30 p.m.

Cynthia Bee, Conservation Garden Park

Learn how to turn your landscape into a work of art. Regardless of your skill level, this class will help you to create a landscape that is beautiful, functional and saves water too.

Creating a Waterwise Landscape on a Budget

Saturday, May 21, 2011

9:00 a.m.

Cynthia Bee, Conservation Garden Park

Do you have BIG plans for your landscape but a small budget? Find out how to make small changes in phases that won’t break the bank.

Retrofitting an Irrigation System

Saturday, May 21, 2011

10:30 a.m.

Justin Hamula, Hunter Industries

Overwhelmed by the idea of making changes to your existing sprinkler system? Come and learn how to turn the system you have into the system you want.

Easy Herbs

Thursday, May 26, 2011

7:00 p.m.

Merry Lycett Harrison, Millcreek Herbs

Herbs make a great addition to any waterwise landscape. Find out which herbs to plant and how to use them.

Barney’s Perennial Picks

Saturday, June 11, 2011

10:00 a.m.

Barney Barnett, Willard Bay Gardens

Learn from an expert about colorful and hardy Utah-friendly perennials and how to care for them.

David Salman of High Country Gardens
Saturday, June 18, 2011
10:00 a.m.
David Salman, High Country Gardens
Find out about the best plants for your landscape from David Salman, owner of High Country Gardens, one of the premier waterwise nurseries in the West. Admission is $10 and seating is limited so sign up now to reserve your seat.

Attend two classes in 2011 and receive a $10 gift certificate to a local nursery. Our special thanks to Glover Nursery and Cactus and Tropicals for sponsoring our classes.
(one certificate per person, while supplies last)

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-05-16T08:00:00.000-07:00

Firecracker Penstemon (Penstemon eatonii)

One of the premier native plants of Utah, the firecracker penstemon has no equal as a spring blooming native. Not only does it survive on natural precipitation (once established), prefer hot and dry conditions and tolerate salty soils, it also produces many stalks covered in fire red flowers. The blooming happens each spring after one to two years of establishment. The flowers are also highly attractive to hummingbirds and planting one will almost guarantee a visit from a blurry winged friend.

Excessive care of this plant will result in a shortened life-span. The firecracker penstemon prefers soils that are not too organic and that don’t stay wet. If you are planting in heavy soils, do not overwater. It will lightly reseed itself if the seed pods are left on the stem until they dry.

Vegetable Gardening Tips for the Brown Thumb

2011-05-11T08:00:00.000-07:00

Do you already have happy young vegetable plants flourishing under homemade grow lights? Do you make your own compost in a hand-made compost bin? Do you grow enough produce to supply your neighbors for the summer? Then this post is not meant for you. Go ahead, read on if you want, but don’t blame me if you know it all already.

Do you kill most of the plants that you grow? Do you think that arugula is an island in the Caribbean? Do you want to grow your own tasty veggies? Then read on!

So you want a vegetable garden. You won’t find tastier, fresher vegetables than those you can grow yourself. Ripe tomatoes fresh off the vine taste like bottled sunshine, especially when compared with the cardboard varieties sold at the supermarket. Unfortunately, if you are looking to save money, at least up front, it will be hard to recoup your garden investments. It takes some effort, time and money to get a garden going. So here is a simple guide to getting your garden started with minimal effort and cost.

First, you need to find the space. Vegetables need sun to grow – as much as they can get. Find that area in your yard that is sunny and level, then carve out a niche for your garden. If you are really gung-ho, you can build raised grow-boxes which not only look classy, but are also within easier reach than planting straight into the ground. However, grow-boxes are expensive. If you, like me, just want to get those plants growing with a minimum expense, clear and till that space and plant straight into the ground.

Second, vegetable plants need nutrients to grow. The best plant food comes from organic matter mixed into the soil. This can come in many forms, compost being a good one. You can either buy it or make it. For me, money is the biggest factor, so I purchased a small, prefabricated compost bin into which I throw all the leaves, kitchen scraps, soil and any other plant matter (except weeds) I can get my hands on. Purchasing compost is okay too, if you have more money than time. Once you have it, mix it into the soil. Spreading it on the top won’t provide the same benefit – it really does need to get mixed in.

Third, your plants will need water. If you or someone you know is a dedicated waterer, willing to trek out to the garden with a hose every day irrigate tender new plants then problem solved! If you are forgetful of those tender plants (as I suspect you are) and leave them to fend for themselves, then an automatic watering system will be best. It needs to be a system that is dedicated to the garden. Stand alone timers are fairly inexpensive and when coupled with a drip system, make an excellent watering option.

Finally, you need the plants. Expert gardeners grow their own plants from seed. Unfortunately, at least for this year, these seeds must be started in the early spring, often as early as late-March to early-April. If you haven’t started any seeds yet, don’t despair. Most greenhouses will grow the standard veggies and sell them to you as small plants. It may not be too late to grow some from seed planted directly into the soil. Beans, peas, lettuce, radishes and corn are easy to grow. Just follow the directions on the seed packets.

If you are wondering when to start your vegetable garden, the answer is NOW! Get out to your garden and start playing in your soil.

Clifton Smith - Garden Manager

Disclaimer: Clifton Smith is not a qualified meteorologist so he cannot predict the likelihood of a stray meteor hitting your garden. He is also unable to predict the weather, so tune into your favorite weather soothsayer to get the most accurate information on the last freeze dates of the year.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-05-09T08:00:00.000-07:00

Margarita BOP Penstemon (Penstemon ‘Margarita BOP’)

Penstemons as a genus are a durable and drought tolerant bunch. Utah has more species of penstemons growing within its borders than any other place in the world. This penstemon, however, is endemic to California. The BOP in the name does not refer to a dance move or a way to strike someone; rather this hybrid was found growing naturally at the bottom of a porch.

Sky blue flowers grow profusely in spring but fade out as warmer weather approaches. The foliage fades slightly through the summer only to pick back up the next spring. One of the most endearing qualities about this penstemon is its ability to handle rough treatment. Once established, it will grow well on natural precipitation, without any fertilizer and in poor soils.

Garden Event Update

2011-05-04T08:00:00.000-07:00

These classes and events are coming up soon. Visit http://conservationgardenpark.org/events/ for more information and to register for classes.

Mother’s Day Garden Fair
Saturday, May 7, 2011

9am-4pm

Join us for our annual Mother’s Day Garden Fair. There will be plant and garden-ware vendors, experts, workshops and mini-classes throughout the day. This is also an excellent opportunity to get that last-minute gift for mom! Admission and parking are free.

Spring Photography in the Garden

Thursday, May 12, 2011

6:30 p.m.

Wasatch Camera Club

Develop your skills as a photographer with the Wasatch Camera Club. Learn photography techniques that will enhance the quality of your photographs. Open to all levels of experience and any type of camera.

Advanced Waterwise Landscape Design

Thursday, May 19, 2011

6:30 p.m.

Cynthia Bee, Conservation Garden Park

Learn how to turn your landscape into a work of art. Regardless of your skill level, this class will help you to create a landscape that is beautiful, functional and saves water too.

Creating a Waterwise Landscape on a Budget

Saturday, May 21, 2011

9:00 a.m.

Cynthia Bee, Conservation Garden Park

Do you have BIG plans for your landscape but a small budget? Find out how to make small changes in phases that won’t break the bank.

Retrofitting an Irrigation System

Saturday, May 21, 2011

10:30 a.m.

Justin Hamula, Hunter Industries

Overwhelmed by the idea of making changes to your existing sprinkler system? Come and learn how to turn the system you have into the system you want.

Easy Herbs

Thursday, May 26, 2011

7:00 p.m.

Merry Lycett Harrison, Millcreek Herbs

Herbs make a great addition to any waterwise landscape. Find out which herbs to plant and how to use them.

Attend two classes in 2011 and receive a $10 gift certificate to a local nursery. Our special thanks to Glover Nursery and Cactus and Tropicals for sponsoring our classes.

(one certificate per person, while supplies last)

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-05-02T08:00:00.000-07:00

Chinese Peony (Paeonia lactiflora)

One of the oldest of cultivated flowers, the Chinese peony originated in China where it has been bred for centuries. Named after Paeon the Greek god of healing, the peony has been used medicinally, but is primarily grown for its large fragrant flowers. The blooms come in whites, pinks, reds, burgundies, yellows and creams and many combinations of those colors. Flowers appear in spring for about three to four weeks and leave behind attractive, dark-green, glossy foliage that, although not showy, still adds something to the landscape. Peonies are easily divided and transplanted, but may take several years to rebloom after being disturbed. These hardy plants are drought avoiders, putting on their floral display early in the spring and then coasting through the hot summers when water is scarce.

Creature Feature

2011-04-27T08:00:00.000-07:00

Box Elder Bugs (Boisea trivittata)

If you aren’t familiar with the box elder bug, you are among the minority. These true-bugs have black bodies rimmed in a bright fire-engine red. Something else you should know is that box elder bugs like the heat. In the cold, their metabolisms slow down making them experience life at a much slower pace, which is such a drag. Heat, on the other hand, gets their juices flowing and then the real fun happens. So when the weather is warm, they throw wild sun-worshipping parties for all their box elder bug friends.

These conspicuous gatherings start when one intrepid box elder bug finds a nice warm spot and emits a scent that summons others of its kind to the party, where they gather in a large reddish-black mass.

Though it can be alarming to see so many bugs together in one space, they are harmless insects with small brains containing just two main directives, eat and breed. Luckily they don’t eat or breed enough to threaten the existence of humans or the plants we love.

The real problems with box elder bugs happen in times of colder weather, like the fall, when they may move indoors (to your house) seeking warmth. People tend to become alarmed at these times since not many people relish the thoughts of sharing their warm homes with ugly, stinky bugs. In these cases, some control may be necessary.

It is important to understand a few key characteristics of the box elder bug in order to understand how to control them. First, they are attracted to and feed off of female box elder trees - the ones that produce seeds. Barring a qualified box elder tree, they will settle for other trees such as maples and ashes. If you are experiencing box elder bug infestations, it is a guarantee that there is a suitable host tree nearby.

Secondly, box elder bugs eat sap and tree juices. They don’t like or want any human juices, so you can breathe easy when you see them. They are a very minor pest of trees and have little or no impact on the health of their hosts. Horticulturally speaking, they don’t demand to be controlled.

Finally, box elder bugs grow from eggs which they lay on their host trees. Immature box elder bugs appear in the form of nymphs, which are similar in appearance to the adults, only smaller and lumpier. Their populations come in cycles and appear to be worst during hot and dry summers.

The best way to control box elder bugs is to remove any nearby host trees. If that is not an option, some degree of tolerance will be necessary. Since they don’t attack humans and do only little damage to trees, it is best to not use harsh pesticides to control them. In fact, pesticides will have only little success with these bugs. If you just can’t help yourself and you need to try something, insecticidal soap is effective and is less damaging to the environment.

To keep them out of your home, use caulk and insulation to plug up any possible entry points, like gaps around your windows. If they have moved into your home, they will congregate in warm, sunny areas, like windows. A vacuum cleaner is not only an effective box elder bug removal tool, but it is so much fun to suck those pesky bugs to their dooms!

Clifton Smith - Garden Manager

Blogger Profile - Clifton Smith

2011-04-25T17:01:00.000-07:00

by Linda Townes

Clifton Smith is the Conservation Garden Park’s garden manager, as well as its blogger extraordinaire. His knowledge and wit make him an excellent choice for reaching readers in an educational and entertaining way.

Clifton has supervised crews for various landscapes in the Salt Lake City area, including the Conference Center at Temple Square. He has been managing the 4-acre Conservation Garden Park since 2005.

Raised in Southeastern Washington and Northern Utah, Clifton got his love of gardening from his dad—the one who always answered the neighbors’ questions about gardening. His father also was the first person Clifton knew who created and installed a drip irrigation system, long before pre-fab systems were available.

Clifton’s interest in gardening and plants led to a natural choice for education: a bachelor’s degree in Horticulture and a master’s degree in Water-Efficient Landscaping, both from Utah State University. When asked why he chose water-efficient landscaping as a degree, Clifton says “it just makes sense that Utah should have its own landscaping style.”

Clifton has answers to your questions—feel free to add them to his posts and he or another staff member will happily assist you.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-04-25T08:00:00.000-07:00

Sun Rose (Helianthemum spp.)

Ever since Adam was given the task of naming all of God’s creations, humans have had trouble coming up with original names. Once we find a name that works, we tend to use it to excess. The sun rose is a rose by name only and isn’t an actual member of the rose family. The sun rose’s problem continues with the genus name, Helianthemum, which means sun flower. So it’s neither a rose nor a sunflower, but its beautiful five-petaled flowers, which do open up in the sun, deserve an original name. However, a sun rose by any other name would still look as beautiful and, even though I can’t change its name, I can still enjoy their striking spring blossoms.

The flowers of the sun rose come in yellows, pinks, reds, stripes and oranges. Each flower lasts for one day, and that’s a lot of blooming for a plant that, at its peak bloom, looks like a carpet of flowers. The dark-green to grey-green foliage holds its own after blooming but can fade somewhat during the summer heat. It is well adapted to dry climates, however, and prefers full sun.

Upcoming Garden Events

2011-04-20T08:00:00.000-07:00

These classes and events are coming up soon. Visit www.ConservationGardenPark/events.aspx for more information and to register for classes.

Vegetable Gardening

Thursday, April 28, 2011

6:30 p.m.

David Rice, Weber Basin Water Conservancy District

You can’t buy fresher, tastier vegetables than those grown in your own backyard. Learn the best methods for growing vegetables in Utah’s climate.

Mother’s Day Garden Fair

Saturday, May 7, 2011

9am-5pm

Spring Photography in the Garden

Thursday, May 12, 2011

6:30 p.m.

Wasatch Camera Club

Attend two classes in 2011 and receive a $10 gift certificate to a local nursery. Our special thanks to Glover Nursery and Cactus and Tropicals for sponsoring our classes. (one certificate per person, while supplies last)

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-04-18T08:00:00.000-07:00

Daffodil (Narcissus spp.)Narcissus was a hunter from Thespiae that was so handsome that everyone he met fell in love with him. In return, he scorned everyone he met. He eventually spotted his beautiful visage in a pool while out hunting and immediately fell madly in love with himself, wasting away while gazing at his reflection.

Narcissus is also the genus of the daffodil, whose beauty and characteristic dipping heads are reminiscent of the Greek tragedy. The flowers come in yellows and whites, although pinks are starting to be more common. Blooms are composed of a trumpet shaped corona surrounded by six petals. Many varieties are multicolored with the corona and petals being different hues.

Daffodils contain a poisonous alkaloid that can be toxic if consumed. They must not taste very good either, because all the regular bulb eaters stay away from it. For anyone who is still crying about the deer eating your tulips, give the daffodil a try.

Plan Next Year's Bulb Display

2011-04-13T08:00:00.000-07:00

Spring is an excellent time to enjoy the beauty of all those bulbs you had the foresight to plant last fall. Unfortunately, by the time you get to next fall, you will have forgotten where you planted them and what they looked like. Now is a good time to take some pictures of your spring blooming bulbs and start planning for next year.

There are many local sources for flowering bulbs, but if you are particular about colors, choose a nursery that offers them in a wide variety. You may also want to look at bulb companies online, such as:

http://www.vanengelen.com/

http://www.johnscheepers.com/

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-04-11T08:00:00.000-07:00

Tulip (Tulipa spp.)
If you are reading this blog and don’t know about tulips, welcome to the world of gardening. Most avid gardeners put them to good use in their gardens. Tulips are relatively fuss-free plants if you are the average gardener. Tulips need a cold period in order to bloom, so plant them in the fall before temperatures dip below freezing. When planting place the bulbs close together in natural looking clumps which, when in bloom, look better than even rows and lines. Warm spring weather brings large, cup-shaped flowers in every color of the rainbow and many shapes. Tulips will provide several years of decent blooms before the blooms lose their energy and only leaves grow. If you are the un-average gardener and only want the best and brightest flowers in your garden, you may choose to dig up your bulbs every year and plant new ones. I let them grow until they displease me and then unceremoniously rip them out and give them to the garbage man. One final work of warning, tulips are candy for deer. If you live in an area with a large deer population, don’t even try tulips.

Upcoming Garden Events

2011-04-06T08:00:00.000-07:00

These classes and events are coming up soon. Visit www.ConservationGardenPark/events.aspx for more information and to register for classes.

Simply Waterwise
Saturday, April 9, 2011
10:00 a.m.
Clifton Smith, Conservation Garden Park
Saving water in your yard doesn’t have to be complicated. Find out simple yet effective ways to use less water while keeping your landscape green and beautiful.

Simplemente, Eficiencia de Agua!
Sábado, 16 de Abril del 2011
10:00 a.m.
Yvette Amparo-Espinoza, Jordan Valley Water Conservancy District
El ahorro de agua en su patio no tiene que ser complicado. Encuentre maneras simple pero eficaz para utilizar menos agua mientras mantiene su jardín verde y hermoso.

Vegetable Gardening
Thursday, April 28, 2011
6:30 p.m.
David Rice, Weber Basin Water Conservancy District
You can’t buy fresher, tastier vegetables than those grown in your own backyard. Learn the best methods for growing vegetables in Utah’s climate.

Attend two classes in 2011 and receive a $10 gift certificate to a local nursery. Our special thanks to Glover Nursery and Cactus and Tropicals for sponsoring our classes. (one certificate per person, while supplies last)

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-04-04T08:00:00.000-07:00

Saucer Magnolia (Magnolia soulangeana)
When you say magnolias, I think “the south,” where stately members of the genus grow to be large trees. In Utah, if you want to grow a magnolia, the saucer magnolia is the choice. Not nearly as large as its southern relatives, this magnolia is more of a large shrub, but it is easier to grow and will tolerate Utah’s alkaline soils. The first magnolia I saw in bloom was in Logan at an intersection I walked past often. I was barely starting my horticulture education, but I couldn’t mistake its lovely flowers growing on bare branches for anything other than a magnolia. Few flowering trees have flowers that can rival that of the magnolia. It is a must for spring gardens.

Creature Feature

2011-03-30T08:00:00.000-07:00

Black Pineleaf Scale

Scale are tiny sap-sucking insects who, once attached, form a hard protective shell to keep out predators, pesticides and other forms of insect death. They are the plant equivalent of a tick. In general, scale are only problems on plants that are stressed or not suited to their location.

The black pineleaf scale or Nuculaspis californica is a variety of scale that prefers to grow on pines and some other evergreen trees. In Utah, there has been a large occurrence of this insect on Austrian pines. Most scales occur in few enough numbers that they don’t do significant damage. However, over several years, the black pineleaf scale increases in high enough populations that they can kill the tree.

Unlike other scale, black pineleaf scale attaches to the leaves (needles in this case), from where they will suck the plant’s juices. From a distance, pines that are afflicted with this pest will lose their healthy green color and needles will turn gray and eventually brown as they die off. Over several years, the loss of vigor becomes more apparent until it is too late.

Control is usually effective, but treatment will need to occur on a regular basis in order to save the tree. Systemic insecticides and horticultural oils are usually used to treat this problem. In large trees, and for those who are uncomfortable with pesticides, it may be worth calling a pest control expert who will make sure the timing is right and recommend the appropriate treatment.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-03-28T08:00:00.000-07:00

Netted Iris (Iris reticulata)
The netted iris is a small flower that knows how to make a big entrance. Had the netted iris decided to bloom in mid to late-spring with the other 90% of flowering plants, it wouldn’t be much to talk about. Its diminutive size would make it almost unnoticeable amid the chaos of blooms. Instead, it chose to bloom in early-spring with the crocus and the snow drops and other small bulbs that herald the approach of spring. If you blink, you may miss them, but during that blink, you know that winter is finished.

Upcoming Garden Events

2011-03-23T08:00:00.000-07:00

These classes and events are coming up soon. Visit www.ConservationGardenPark/events.aspx for more information and to register for classes.

Basic Waterwise Landscape Design

Thursday, March 31, 2011

6:30 p.m.

Franci DeLong, Xeriscape Design, L.C.

Successful waterwise landscapes begin on paper. Find out how to develop your garden plan to ensure maximum beauty with minimum water.

Simply Waterwise

Saturday, April 9, 2011

10:00 a.m.

Clifton Smith, Conservation Garden Park

Saving water in your yard doesn’t have to be complicated. Find out simple yet effective ways to use less water while keeping your landscape green and beautiful.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-03-21T08:00:00.001-07:00

Pasque Flower (Pulsatilla vulgaris)
One of the first flowers to appear in the spring, the Pasque flower is aptly named for its habit of blooming around Easter. The goblet-shaped flowers are typically blue to purple in nature, but thanks to the miracle of plant breeding, there are now varieties that bloom pink, red and white. Eventually the flowers give way to feathery seed heads that are attractive in their own right. The leaves of the Pasque flower are highly dissected, which means they are almost fern-like in appearance. Altogether this plant has a silken appearance that, along with an early bloom-time, gives it an almost surreal look that is striking when every other plant is still trying to wake up.

Spring Clean-Up

2011-03-16T08:00:00.000-07:00

Landscapes are as varied as the people who own them, and the level of care they receive varies just as greatly. In the Garden, we are required to keep it looking tidy, but aside from cleaning up leaves, we reserve most of our cleaning for the spring, and this is why:

First of all, it’s hard to know which plants will respond well to being cut back in the spring versus the fall. For example, if you trim lavender or other evergreen plants in the fall, you could weaken it, and once winter is done with it, you will have a nicely trimmed but crispy dead plant on your hands.

Secondly, leaving the work until spring allows for some winter interest instead of a boringly bare garden. Ornamental grasses are a great example of this. Some of their best look comes in the winter when their tan foliage is a marked contrast to the white snow that would otherwise dominate your bleak landscape.

Generally, spring clean-up begins as early as you feel like getting out into the garden. Though a good time is once relatively warm temperatures arrive in March. Here is a good way to approach your clean-up.

1. Start by pruning trees and shrubs.

2. Next, cut back large perennials, such as ornamental grasses, making sure to get to them before they begin growing new shoots.

3. Remove all dead top growth on perennials. Avoid cutting back evergreen perennials, like lavender and Lenten rose, unless they need shaping.

4. Finally, rake leaves and other unwanted debris out of your flower beds.

It’s hard to go wrong when cleaning up plants. The process is pretty intuitive. Basically, remove anything that is dead or unsightly. Leave anything that is green and growing. However, here are some common hints to questions people usually have.

• Cut back ornamental grasses to about 6 to 12 inches depending on if they are large or small. The smallest ornamental grasses, such as fescues and blue oat grasses, shouldn’t be cut at all. Instead, rake your hands through them, pulling out all the dead growth. Remember to wear gloves for this process.

• Cut back perennials to 3 to 6 inches depending on the variety. Some perennials can be removed right to the ground.

• Remove the leaves of spring bulbs once they have begun to turn yellow and wilt.

• Applying a new coating of mulch will help to freshen up the look of your yard.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-03-14T08:00:00.000-07:00

Spring Crocus (Crocus vernus)This diminutive member of the iris family is one of the first harbingers of spring. Often showing up in late-February, it has always given me hope that the long winter is coming to its end. Crocuses have been highly hybridized and there are many to choose from. Colors vary from whites to purples, blues and yellows. All have cup-shaped flowers that open during the day and close at night.

Crocuses can be mass planted in lawn areas and provide a lovely carpet of flowers and disappear before the lawn needs mowing. If you are a compulsive lawn-groomer, however, you may find the look to be too “weedy.”

Upcoming Garden Events

2011-03-09T08:00:00.000-08:00

These classes and events are coming up soon. Visit www.ConservationGardenPark/events.aspx for more information and to register for classes.

Tree Care and Pruning Workshop
Saturday, March 12, 2011
10:00 a.m.
Kathryn Brown, Conservation Garden Park
Learn basic tree care and pruning principles from the garden’s lead horticulturist. Pruning techniques will be demonstrated with plenty of time to ask questions about your own trees.

Basic Waterwise Landscape Design
Thursday, March 31, 2011
6:30 p.m.
Franci DeLong, Xeriscape Design, L.C.
Successful waterwise landscapes begin on paper. Find out how to develop your garden plan to ensure maximum beauty with minimum water.

Attend two classes in 2011 and receive a $10 gift certificate to a local nursery. Our special thanks to Glover Nursery and Cactus and Tropicals for sponsoring our classes. (one certificate per person, while supplies last)

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-03-07T08:00:00.000-08:00

Dorr Sage (Salvia dorii)
According to my sources, Dorr sage has been called tobacco sage because it was smoked by Native Americans. This makes me wonder who came up with the idea of lighting a bunch of plants on fire to see what happens when the smoke was inhaled. Doubtless, humans have smoked just about every plant they could get their hands on. Regardless of the smoky qualities of Dorr sage, it is one of my favorite Utah native plants for its appearance. As a note, this is NOT the salvia that teens are smoking these days, just a relative.

Dorr sage grows naturally in light soils with only natural precipitation. In the landscape, it does well in hot and dry locations and shouldn’t be irrigated once established. The flowers of Dorr sage make their appearance early in the spring and are electric blue with neon yellow stamens. As they age, the flowers turn bluish-purple before drying out. The foliage is very aromatic and even a slight brush will release a very strong sagey aroma.

How to Prune - Part 3

2011-03-02T08:00:00.000-08:00

Pruning Do’s and Don’ts

True arborists die a little inside each time they see someone wildly hacking away at their large tree with a chainsaw a'smokin', leaving behind a stubby looking monstrosity. Not only are mispruned trees ugly, they are unhealthy. Here is a list of pruning do’s and don’ts (mostly do’s):

1. When removing a branch, cut it back to its connection to another branch to avoid leaving unnatural stubs. This helps the tree to grow healthy new branches in response to the pruning.

2. Only remove a maximum of one third of the tree’s branches. Removing more than this will shock the tree and eventually weaken it.

3. When removing large branches, use the proper equipment and cut it down in sections. Removing a large branch with one cut at its base could damage you and the tree.

4. When removing diseased branches, soak your pruners in a bleach solution after each cut.

5. Don’t apply tar or any other product to a pruning wound. The tree will naturally heal itself and these products only inhibit that process.

Pruning requires patience, knowledge and a vision of what you want the tree to become. A little preparation will go a long way in helping you achieve that.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-02-28T08:00:00.000-08:00

Navajo Yucca (Yucca baileyi)Yuccas are native to the western United States as well as parts of Central and South America, and were often used by Native Americans for various purposes including food and soap. Intentionally placing them in the landscape for their aesthetic qualities is a modern day use for yuccas. Yuccas can be quite attractive in the landscape if used properly, but personally, I have been skeptical of using them ornamentally, until I saw the Navajo yucca. Unlike many yuccas, its sword-shaped leaves are much more narrow and stiff than the more common varieties. The one in our garden has flowered one year in the ten we have had it, last year, but it put on quite a show. Large clusters of creamy white flowers were very striking. I’m sure there are many who like any yucca, but for me, this is the one to plant.

How to Prune - Part 2

2011-02-23T08:00:00.000-08:00

Pruning Trees

Sometime in late-February to early-March, I officially can’t stand it anymore and have to get out pruning. Although I usually wait for a particularly warm spell, pruning can be done any time during late-winter to early-spring. There are a lot of different sources that will detail the best time to prune for each tree species you have, but I have found it best to keep it simple and do all the trees at the same time. Late-February through April is a good time and is usually easiest on the trees.

The hardest part to pruning is when you have your gear all together and are standing looking up at the tree to try to decipher where to begin. Remember that pruning is part art and part science. Make decisions based on what looks good and what will keep the tree healthy. Here is how I decide what to prune:

1. I start by removing any branches that are dead or broken. These are obvious choices and will effect what you do with the rest of the tree. If a branch looks dead, but you aren’t sure, make a small scrape on the bark to expose the underlying tissue. If it is bright green, it is still alive.

2. My next step is to look for branches that are problems. Problem branches include ones that cross another branch, rub together, growing vigorously straight up, growing inward instead of outward, and branches that are growing at a narrow angle, especially if the bark at the crotch is growing inwardly.

3. Finally, make some cuts to thin the tree out and give it a desirable shape. Think about how you want the tree to grow in the future and remove branches that are competing with the ones you want to promote. Each tree species has a different preferred habit. A quick internet search should show you if they prefer a central leader or if they are more vase-shaped by nature.

Next week we will discuss the do’s and don’ts of pruning.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-02-21T08:00:00.000-08:00

Kentucky Coffee Tree (Gymnocladus dioica)
As suggested by the common name, the seeds of the Kentucky coffee tree were used as a substitute for coffee by early settlers of the Midwestern United States. The seeds are quite toxic, so preparation was key in using it to make the pseudo-coffee, and lacking caffeine, the practice was abandoned as soon as actual coffee became available.

The leaves of the Kentucky coffee emerge late in the spring and are one of the first to fall in autumn, after turning a brilliant yellow. Its large leaves are composed of many leaflets and long, twiggy stems that leave the branches looking sparse and stumpy once they have fallen. Some people wrongly assume the worst when the Kentucky coffee tree doesn’t wake up early in the spring, but it likes to bide its time, awaiting the opportune moment to make its appearance. One of the best large trees for drought and poor soils, this tree is also long-lived and deserves a place in Utah landscapes.

How to Prune – Part 1

2011-02-16T09:12:00.000-08:00

Getting the Right Tools for the Job
Around mid-February as temperatures begin to warm, I start to get antsy to be out working in the yard. This may be a little early for most, but for those of you who, like me, can’t wait to get out in the yard again, pruning your trees is a good activity for late-winter. I know it’s time for me to get out when I start spending too much time staring up into the canopies of my trees, mentally taking note of the branches that need to go. I have to be careful because my neighbors act funny if I stare at them too long, especially if my mental note-taking involves talking to myself.
To take that first step toward pruning your trees, you need to round up your tools. Those of us who own pruning tools will probably need to go scavenging through sheds and garages until you have found where they were stashed from the last time you went pruning. They will need to be sharpened and oiled to get them in good working condition for this year.

For those of you who don’t yet own pruning tools, now is a good time to get the right tools for the job. There are many tools out there that look good hanging in their flashy wrapping in those big box stores, but not all pruning tools are equal. I have been the unfortunate user of many sub-par tools that inevitably go dull after only minimal use. You know that your tools are poorly made if they can’t cut branches without leaving torn wood, or if cutting a branch involves slamming handles together several times with all the force you can muster in order to actually cut a branch off. Poorly made or badly designed tools are not only difficult to use, but can be dangerous. Do your homework before you buy pruning tools. There are many excellent brands out there, but in the Garden, we have had a lot of luck with Felco, Bahco and Corona brands.

The following tools are essential for any serious pruner: a handsaw for larger branches, loppers for branches in the 1 inch diameter range, and hand pruners for small branches and twigs. If you are removing branches larger than 4 inches in diameter, you will need a large saw or chainsaw.

By the time I finish pruning, I am usually too tired to want to maintain my tools. However, your equipment will last longer and be safer to use if they are sharpened, cleaned and oiled after each use. Quality tools usually have replacement blades that can be purchased at a fraction of the cost of new tools.

Next week we’ll discuss how to get started pruning your tree, so get those tools ready!

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-02-14T08:00:00.000-08:00

Curl-Leaf Mountain Mahogany (Cercocarpus ledifolius)
A Utah native, mountain mahoganies can be seen in many forms and situations in nature. I have seen some stunted to wiry little bushes and others grown tall enough to form a canopy. The beauty of this large-shrub is in its versatility. It will survive in the most difficult climates and thrive on only natural precipitation. On the other hand, it will grow well in fertile soil and with regular amounts of water. Its grayish branches grow upright with small, slightly curling leaves. It is semi-evergreen, which means that it will keep its leaves until they become a liability. In times of extreme drought, it will drop its leaves and hibernate until it has enough water to replace them again. Although its flowers don’t provide much to look at, its seeds have long, tufted tails.

Education Center- Sneak Peek!

2011-02-07T09:57:00.000-08:00

Above: Building view from gardens.
Below: Plaza view of building.

Front Entry

The as-yet-unamed new education center at Conservation Garden Park is currently under construction. Crews expect to complete the building sometime in June/July of 2011. The Education Building will be the first LEED Platinum building in Salt Lake County that is openly accessible to the public.

The US Green Building Council has established sytems and standards for "green" construction. LEED stands for "Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design". It seems only fitting that an Environmental Education Center would employ environmental technologies to increase the efficiency of the structure. Details regarding the various environmental systems will be forthcoming in future posts.

For now, we're just excited by the progress being made on the site and all the new teaching opportunities and partnerships with similar organizations that will be open to us as a result of the new facility!

Interior view of the Resource Center

View of classroom space. This space will divide into 3 separate classroom areas. Along the back wall, the striated 'rock' formation is the rammed earth wall, one of the environmental features of the building.

The breezeway area will be made primarily of glass and will contain glass roll-up doors which will make for a seamless transition between the interior and exterior of the building.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-02-07T08:00:00.000-08:00

Baby Blue Eyes Blue Spruce (Picea pungens ‘Baby Blueeyes’)
Despite the large number of blue spruces found in residential landscapes, there are many people that consider this plant unfit for landscapes. Yes, it does have an appealing color and the symmetrical form is quite pleasing. However, it has a very prickly personality and it gets so BIG. Most blue spruces have out grown their welcome and become a nuisance. People eventually grow tired of brushing against its abrasive foliage and usually cut the branches high on the trunk, ruining the beauty of the tree altogether. Baby Blue Eyes is the answer for this problem. It is still quite prickly, but it is much smaller and a better fit for the landscape. Eventually growing to 10-15 feet tall, it takes much less room and still has the beautiful color and shape of blue spruces.

Give Neither Counsel Nor Salt Till You Are Asked

2011-02-01T07:29:00.000-08:00

I grew up in southeastern Washington State, where almost any amount of snowfall resulted in cities being shut down for the day. I have fond memories of early mornings waiting anxiously with my brothers by the radio with crossed fingers hoping for another school cancellation. Invariably, a snowfall of 2 or more inches would result in a free day filled with snowball fights in the yard which my brother always won (he was a good shot and always aimed for your face).

Upon moving to Utah, we quickly learned that the world would have to end before school would be cancelled due to bad weather. One especially cold and stormy morning, the usual one hour bus ride lasted a bit longer when the diesel lines on the bus froze. We waited for quite some time in the cold dark bus on a lonely country road while the bus driver tried to thaw the lines with a blow torch.

In a climate where we are constantly risking our lives, sliding to work in raging storms, salt has become a major tool in combating icy roads. If you are lucky enough to get to work free of incidents, your car is layered with a corrosive film of salt that has to be washed off. Upon reaching your destination, worried maintenance crews have generously spread salt along the sidewalks which gets tracked into buildings where the melted salt leaves crusty white patches in the entryways.

Salt is useful to melt ice, when the temperatures are right, and to eliminate slippery areas that could result in law suits. Excessive salt also means death to many plants. Often, our excessive use of salt builds up in soils and can cause long term plant health problems.

Here are some tips for using salt on walkways and sidewalks.

1) Use salt sparingly, focusing only on areas that are actually icy.

2) Spread the salt evenly, avoiding large piles that are not only wasteful, but can get swept into flower beds.

3) Clean snow off of sidewalks and cement before walking or driving on it. This reduces the ice buildup and, once the sun comes out, sidewalks that are wet will dry quickly, even in below freezing temperatures.

4) Try other products, such as sand, that don't have the same negative landscape effects.

5) Wear appropriate footwear to avoid slipping on icy surfaces.

6) In areas that are expected to get more salt than others, select plants that are tolerant of saline conditions, such as Four-Wing Saltbrush, a Utah native.

Salt is useful, in some situations, but is often overused. Being selective about how much we apply will not only save money but increase the overall health of your landscape.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-01-31T08:00:00.000-08:00

Midwinter Fire Dogwood (Cornus sanguina ‘Midwinter Fire’)
This shrubby dogwood has the typical elements that make a plant appealing in the summer. Handsome green leaves and clusters of white flowers bloom in the spring. Where this shrub really shines is in the winter, once the leaves are gone. Its stems start out a yellowish-orange at the base, turning darker orange toward their middles and bright red at their tops. All the stems together look very much like a fire in midwinter. Grown in groupings, it can have a very striking effect in the landscape.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-01-24T08:00:00.000-08:00

Repanda Juniper (Juniperus communis ‘Repanda’)
Junipers were the fad in the 70’s and were greatly overused. Old “pfitzers” and “tams” could get ugly really quick if they weren’t cared for properly. Junipers tend to be the historians of the plant world, you could find plenty of ancient balls, paper, and other artifacts that got stuck in their prickly grasp. I had about written junipers off, but the common juniper, especially “Repanda” won me over. Staying fairly low to the ground, this shrub is still prickly, but the needles are different from most junipers and quite attractive. The foliage is dark-green with shades of blue-green to grey running through them.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-01-17T08:00:00.000-08:00

Serbian Spruce (Picea omorika)
Native to western Serbia and eastern Bosnia, this lovely evergreen is an excellent choice for any landscape. Naturally pyramidal in youth, the branches droop slightly with age providing a very attractive, almost weeping form. New growth appears with an almost bluish-grey coating, turning dark-green with maturity. Reaching only 30 feet at maximum, this lovely evergreen fits well into most landscapes and its hardiness and resistance to pollution add to its charm. Sometimes used to replace Douglas fir, it deserves a place in your landscape by its own right. The new growth is edible, but similar to last week’s entry, not very tasty. Tricking a coworker into eating it backfired when he started munching on all the new growth. I had to step in before he permanently stunted the tree’s growth. The lesson is, you never know what someone will like, but seriously, it’s not tasty, unless you like pine-fresh breath.

Winter Gardening

2011-01-14T09:35:00.000-08:00

Winter may not allow us to dig in the earth and garden in the traditional sense, but it is the perfect time to “dig into” landscape planning. Conservation Garden Park offers a number of opportunities to learn and enjoy nature through the cold winter months. Few people think of winter as a gardening season but there is much to be appreciated—even if you have to look a little closer to find it.

Left: Creeping Oregon Grape in full winter color.

Has your own landscaping hibernated for the winter or are you enjoying a fourth season of color and activity? If the answer is the former instead of the latter, now’s the time to plan changes for spring.

Snow-covered structures are lovely in their own right or can become the center of social activity for colorful birds if feeders are hung from the rafters.

One of the best-kept secrets of the Conservation Garden Park is its winter beauty. In the Garden, evergreen trees and shrubs take center stage, showcasing a variety of colors, texture and foliage—made more noticeable by the contrast of snow. Branches take on a sculptural quality, especially those blessed with interesting bark or persistent fruit. Berries attract birds to the landscape providing movement and life. Together, these elements combine to form a winter wonderland at Conservation Garden Park.
Evergreens, boulders, hardscaping and snow work together to paint a winter wonderland.

In any solid landscape design, evergreen plants of every shape, size and texture form the backbone. How these materials work together with hardscape elements is more easily observed this time of year when seasonal foliage is dormant. Conservation Garden Park offers many examples of winter landscape elements. We invite you to tour the Garden during our winter hours to learn how to create a fourth season of color.

If you’re feeling decidedly LESS adventurous—cozy up in your own home and enjoy the excellent online resources for winter planning available through our website, which includes an extensive database of Utah-specific plants.

Online message boards, blogs, seed catalogs and gardening books are also great sources of information. Planning for the spring can save time, money and maybe—during these dreary January inversions—your sanity!

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-01-10T08:00:00.000-08:00

Creeping Mahonia (Mahonia repens)Always the bridesmaid never the bride, this plant works well in a supporting position but will never steal the show in your garden. But, not every plant needs to steal the show, and in its own way, this evergreen shrub is packed with many attractive features and year-round appeal. The prickly-edged foliage emerges red and turns dark-green during the summer. As winter approaches, the leaves turn a dark burgundy. Clusters of bright-yellow flowers appear in spring, turning to bluish-purple berries as summer approaches. Although the berries are edible, they are very astringent. With a little urging, your loved ones will eagerly try a taste. Follow up with, “I only said it was edible, I never said it tasted good.”

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2011-01-03T08:00:00.001-08:00

Bald Cypress (Taxodium distichum)
For middle-aged men, the term “bald” probably brings negative feelings. However, for this stately conifer, bald is an apt description of its deciduous nature. Losing foliage in the winter is rare for conifers, but the bald cypress will lose its needles as the weather grows cold, regaining a fresh new set in the spring. Although it is often a cause for alarm for those who are unaware of this trait, it is an interesting characteristic on a tree that has many redeeming qualities. Naturally growing in swampy and wet areas, this tree will grow in relatively dry soils as well.

Being a recent addition to the garden, the only pictures we had were in its less impressive "bald" state. The attached picture shows some very mature examples, but is not from the garden (we don't have any trees growing in standing water around here).

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2010-12-27T08:00:00.000-08:00

Pinyon Pine (Pinus edulis)
The smell of pinyon pine needles has been described as “Christmas,” and it certainly has a distinct piney aroma. Commonly found through much of western United States, this tree has been torn out by many ranchers to clear their ranges for cattle and has often been used as a Christmas tree in south and central Utah. Pinyon pines are very tough trees and, once established, can survive on natural rainfall alone. They were a source of pine nuts for Native Americans, but ours have rarely produced pine nuts in our garden. Only reaching 30 feet in height (over decades), this small pine tree is an excellent choice for urban landscapes, especially dry ones.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2010-12-20T08:00:00.000-08:00

Turkish Cedar (Cedrus libani var. stenocoma)
Closely related to the cedar of Lebanon, the Turkish cedar is smaller than its cousin, but may still reach up to 40 feet. Tufts of bluish-green needles grow along the length of its branches which modestly cover the trunk and gracefully sweep the surface of the ground. Although the branching is often spaced irregularly, it does provide it with a picturesque appearance, which really means it can have an unusual form. However, unusual forms make this evergreen work well as a focal point or a specimen tree. Unfortunately, our Turkish cedars were temporarily removed due to construction. Although the attached picture isn't from our garden, it shows a beautifully mature Turkish cedar.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2010-12-13T08:00:00.000-08:00

Arizona Cypress (Cupressus arizonica)
This Southwestern native has often been thought to prefer warmer climates than the Wasatch Front, but we have been growing ours for 10 years and it has grown fine, maybe a little too fine for the spot it was planted. Its gray-green foliage and conical form make it a striking specimen tree and many have been used as Christmas trees in its native habitat. It requires little water once established and can reach up to 30 or 40 feet. Some varieties being sold recently are much smaller, topping out at closer to 20 feet.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2010-12-06T08:00:00.000-08:00

Black Hills Spruce (Picea glauca ‘Densata’)
As the holidays approach, it seems appropriate to highlight some excellent evergreen trees that may also be used as Christmas trees. Black Hills spruce is native to the Black Hills region of South Dakota. Its conical shape, smaller size (20-30 feet tall) and brighter needles distinguish it from the other white spruces and make it a very desirable landscape tree. Once established, it is a very care-free tree and requires little attention. Ours was threatened during recent construction but, due to the efforts of one of our gardeners, it was saved (I stopped her just short of having herself chained to the tree). Despite construction happening all around it, and the loss of a significant portion of its roots, it survived quite admirably.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2010-11-29T08:00:00.000-08:00

Snowberry (Symphoricarpos albus)
Once the leaves fall from this mountain shrub, you see why snowberry gets its name. Clusters of creamy white berries remain on the branches well after the leaves have fallen. Although the berries are attractive, they are inedible, so don’t try them. Roundish leaves grow on slender arching stems that can root where they meet the ground. In our heavy soils it has not spread quickly, but may do so in lighter soils. This shrub grows naturally in shady areas and in the understory, so it would prefer the north side of your home.

Weekly Plant Spotlight

2010-11-22T08:00:00.000-08:00

Yaku Jima Maiden Grass (Miscanthus sinensis ‘Yaku Jima’)
Discerning tastes may prefer switch grasses, but this beautiful maiden grass has had me captivated since I first saw it. The form is shorter than many other maiden grasses and the very slender leaf blades make it a graceful looking plant. The seed heads are not the most prominent feature but grow above it like yellow spurts of fireworks. It doesn’t take much effort to keep it looking good, just a quick shave in the spring.